Heaven on Earth
A recent gusty storm has whipped the ripening apples from their trees and strewn the farm with a mighty crop of windfalls. These apples are of different heritage varieties which I won’t attempt to identify but am willingly tasting and enjoying. They suggest all kinds of culinary delights, both sweet and savoury which embody the essence of autumn. Baking and preserving can be a full-time preoccupation now while the orchards and hedgerows are laden with fruits and berries and it is a very rewarding task. Even if your time is limited a lot can be gained by simply freezing soft fruit, either whole or pureed to be utilised later in baking or as base for a smoothie. The flavours of wild and locally sourced autumn fruits are far superior to anything found on the supermarket shelves. Their ‘shelf life’ can be considerably shorter than the latter which is why it is important to use or preserve them as soon as possible. Imported fruit is sprayed with pesticides to preserve its life in transit and cold storage.
The marriage of apple and blackberry is a joyful and heavenly union. (If you Google apple or blackberry in search of a recipe you might just find promotions for smart phones….) A basic filling of these trusty partners with a topping of buttery oat flakes and flour makes a simple but delightful baked crumble dessert. There is nothing humble about an apple pie if the ingredients are treated with care. Bear in mind that the common Bramley cooking apple will go fluffy when cooked while the sweet dessert varieties will hold their shape. Gently simmer some cooking apples in a pan with a tablespoon or two of water and some sugar to taste. Add a teaspoon of cornflour (mixed with a little water) to the cooked apple to make a thick apple ‘sauce’ and set aside to cool. Add to this some peeled and chopped dessert apples to make a pie filling. This method holds the filling together while keeping an interesting bite. Place the apple filling into a blind baked short crust or puff pastry base, top with a pastry lid and bake. A hint of cinnamon, clove or nutmeg will add an aroma to whet your appetite.
Everyone has their own preference when it comes to apple pie or fruit crumble. The textures and proportions of fillings and toppings can delight or disappoint depending on our expectations which invariably sprout from a childhood nostalgia. Whichever style you favour, this cook has one priority when it comes to an optimum bake; the pie case or topping should have a distinctive and separate texture to the fruit filling. A wet or doughy pastry is not pleasant.
Soft autumnal fruits are nature’s way of easing us into the cooler bitterness of winter. Deep purpley plums are a warming and comforting fruit when poached or baked in a pudding or pie. Damsons (if you can find them) need more sweetening and are more suitable for jam or a fruit ‘cheese’ to accompany savoury foods. Blackberries and black currants are the traditional candidates here for jam but are used in Nordic countries for savoury accompaniments to fish and game as well. The easiest way to preserve blackberries without loosing their nutritional value is to combine the strained pulp with a little sugar syrup and lemon juice and freeze or process in an ice cream maker. If you don’t have an ice cream maker, the fruit puree should be briskly stirred several times during the freezing process to break up the water crystals.
Blackberry sorbet is a perfectly cool partner for this autumn frangipane pie. Almonds and apple, being another heavenly pair, are the main filling for this rich and satisfying dessert. Halved plums, apricots, rhubarb or pears can replace the apples with equal success. This recipe is for a 20cm tin.
Autumn Apple Frangipane pie
For the base
150g plain flour
75g chilled butter
1 tbsp. (approx.) cold water
Egg for glazing
For the Frangipane
100g Ground almonds
100g butter (room temperature)
20g plain flour
2 medium eggs
2 or 3 dessert apples
Pre heat the oven to 180c.
Rub together the flour and cubed butter with your finger tips to form breadcrumb consistency.
Bind together with the water to make a dough and chill for at least 20 mins.
line the baking tray with pastry and chill again before blind baking for about 10 mins.
Glaze the base with beaten egg to seal and bake 5 mins. Remove from oven to cool.
Make the frangipane by creaming the butter and sugar before mixing in the flour, almond and eggs. Leave the mixture to rest while you peel, core and slice the apples.
Spread the frangipane on the cooled base and press the apples gently into the soft mix. Bake at 180 for 15 min. then reduce temperature to 150 and bake for 45mins. Check intermittently and cover the crust edge with tinfoil if it is inclined to burn.
Glaze the pie while still warm (if desired) with warmed honey or apricot jam.
Serve with a scoop of blackberry sorbet.
Make this with a mix of apple and/or blackberry. Serve with an apple sorbet. Sprinkle with toasted almonds or walnuts. Eat with a vat of custard. The options are yours.